These things always happen in twos.

Sharon has a theory that all bad things happen in pairs. This means that whenever something bad happens (speeding tickets, oversleeping) she's immediately ready for the same thing to happen again in the near future.

So yesterday evening I headed out on the motorcycle. I saw another moto coming, but I saw that I had plenty of time to pull into the opposite lane. As I pulled out, he decided not to continue going straight but instead turned to avoid me. Unfortunately, and weirdly, he veered into my lane...and crashed right into me.

Well, his moto was torn up a bit, and I heard plastic bits hitting the ground and saw a brake line come off his front wheel. My moto and I were knocked over. I stood up and looked it over, and all was fine. A small group of people were ridiculing the other driver for driving into me on my side of the road. Since the only advice I've received about getting into accidents in Haiti is to get away from the scene as quickly as possible, I took the opportunity to start my moto and get out of there before the gathering crowd changed their minds. I hope the other driver is able to fix his bike without too much trouble.

This morning while in bumper-to-bumper traffic on the motorcycle with Sharon, I had to stop behind a tap-tap. These are the small pickup trucks that serve as public transport here, and suddenly the driver decided to reverse...what?...into us. We yelled for him to stop, which he fortunately did. But who reverses in traffic (#1), and if you do embark on such folly, why wouldn't you look to see if there is a car or motorcycle behind you (#2)?

Anyhow, this cycle of misfortune has begun and ended fairly quickly. I'm happy neither I nor Sharon were hurt, but it adds a new level of fear to the daily commute when I can't trust other drivers to keep their eyes open and stay in their own lanes.

Hey, solutions!

Grassroots International has added an updated preface to a 1997 report on Haiti's situation entitled "Feeding Dependency, Starving Democracy." I haven't been able to download the original report yet (thank you, internet - if anyone can download this and email it to me, I'd appreciate it), but the summary is worth reading partially because it briefly outlines many of the issues facing Haiti today AND because Camille Chalmers of the Haitian Platform to Advocate Alternative Development (with the Creole acronym PAPDA), one of MCC Haiti's unofficial partners, actually proposes solutions to problems (!).

From the preface:
"What would a holistic rehabilitation and development plan of this nature require? Much more than money! It would require a reversal of policies which are at their heart counter to healthy, sustainable development. It would mean a stop to attempts to pry Haiti's economy open to imports; it would mean an end to balancing Haiti's budget by cutting health and education spending; it would mean implementing policies for environmentally-friendly food sovereignty so that Haitians can eat the food they grow in fields that hold the soil; it would mean a massive virtuous circle of support for both the governmental and non-governmental sectors so that they can grow strong together."

Biking in Haiti

Ben and I have been mountain biking the past few weekends and this is the result.

Good thing it's my favorite conversation, because I have it several times a week

Haitian: [question in French]
Me (Creole): Oh, I don't speak French.
Haitian (Creole): You don't speak French?
Me (Creole): No, I don't speak French.
Haitian (Creole): What language do you speak?
Me (Creole): English and Creole.
Haitian (Creole): You speak Creole?
Me (Creole): Yes, I speak Creole.
Haitian (Creole): O-oh....

Gas.

Just another day here in Port-au-Prince: a few days ago we heard a rumor that gas was running out at the stations and it would be like $25 a gallon for gas. Ha! we said, but here we are a few days later with very little gas to be had, and even though the price may be under $25/gallon I'm sure it's not cheap.

Just try to imagine for a moment the ripple effects of your city/town of not having gas or diesel. Everything starts to grind to a halt. In Port there are fewer and fewer tap-taps and mototaxis; big trucks are parked; even many private cars are sitting idle, conserving the last little bit of gas they have in their tanks.

Last night we drove home and there was almost no traffic - the sky was clear, flowers bloomed, and the birds were singing.....not the people though, as lots of people waited for tap-taps that were just not abundant enough.

I consider myself someone who is low on the gas-use scale, but when I really look at it - ugh, that's a long walk home (2.5 miles) uphill (both ways) raining (only when walking). And grocery getting, phew....maybe Ben will let me use one of the cargo bikes.

Why no gas? Well, we've heard that a tanker is on the way from our good friend Chavez in Venezuela, but it's late because the Haitian Consortium of Gas Company Owners was mad at the government for trying to force them to lower gas prices, so as a little jab they delayed their fuel order just long enough to make a point.

Taken. But really? here we are in a poor country destroyed by an earthquake and etc. etc. and now they take the time to make a point about who has their hand on the faucet? Well, I guess now is the time to make that point. Airline strikes over Christmas, utilities strikes over the winter months, etc. Do we really have to get to take this moment to puff up our chests and strut around? Apparently we do.

Well, that's where we are, walkin' and bikin' and not drivin' a whole lot, waiting for the magical day the clear combustible liquid we all know so well comes springing forth again.

Back to school

Monday afternoon marked three months since the earthquake. Just this week we've started to see gingham-shirt-clad students headed back to class, and Tuesday MCC resumed teaching classes at a nearby seminary, Centre de Théologie Intégrale de la Caraїbe. Actually, MCC* was teaching three classes before the earthquake: Social Justice Issues, Advocacy, and an Advocacy Practicum. The seminary has decided to cram the rest of the semester into three whirlwind weeks, so each class runs from 2-6pm.

* Meaning Nixon and Alexis, our advocacy department.

I've signed on to work with Nixon to develop our teacher's guide and make the curriculum replicable, so I attended the class yesterday afternoon. The second-year teacher didn't show, so those students crammed into the first-year classroom to take part in the discussion on neoliberal market and governmental policies.

"To change the system, you must first understand it" - and try to understand it they did. I was also encouraged to hear things like:
"We must take responsibility for our problems."
"Haiti's history is different from all other countries, so we need to seek a solution to problems that fits in with our history and our heritage."
"Other countries can't change Haiti; only the Haitian people can."
"As pastors, we are leaders who can make a difference."

Hear, hear. Sometimes I get exhausted with the fact that everyone, but everyone, is more than willing to point out problems, but rarely are people willing to propose solutions. I know this is difficult in any context, but I particularly appreciate any conversations in which participants move past identifying problems and start thinking about responses. Here's to creativity, hard work, and personal responsibility and engagement.

Moving on

This past weekend we moved, again. It gets easier and easier every time, as we shed things that we really don't need. It reminds me of the scene from Up in the Air when George Clooney talks about putting your life in a backpack and how all of your stuff weighs you down. Well, our backpack just got a little lighter.

Before leaving the house in Kenscoff, Ben and I went mountain biking around the area, through dirt roads and on some nice singletrack. We're scheming about making a movie about biking in Haiti and we're looking really great places to film, so we took the video camera along to see how these places looked on film...well, errr, digital film? Needless to say, the locals all have something to say and want you to give them "a little gift of your bike" as you pedal by.

The best part of the ride, though, was one particularly sketchy part of the trail. Ben went down it, and then got out the camera to shoot me coming down. I waited for a woman passing by, who stopped and told me "not to fall down into the rocky chasm to my right." I laughed, said I wouldn't, and thanked her for the advice. I threw my leg over the bike, and as my foot landed on the ground on the other side...there was no ground on the other side. All of my weight had been behind that foot landing on solid ground, and the "ground" I was aiming for turned out to be just a hole covered over by long grass. Ah, the aforementioned rocky chasm! I tumbled down the nasty rocky hole, and by some sheer stroke of luck, mostly landed on my feet some 8 feet or so below where I had been standing a half second earlier. I had cut open my hand earlier in the week, and of course the fall ripped off the scab and blood came pouring out, uck.

All who watched were amused by the white guy on a bike falling off a little cliff, which guaranteed they would watch us as much as they could. They started hiking ahead to the next semi-dangerous-looking section to sit down and wait for us to come by and fall again. It was sort of like NASCAR where the audience is there for the wreck, or hockey where everyone is there for the fight...well, in mountain biking in Haiti, everyone is there for the crash.

Anyhow, we disappointed them time and again since there were no more wrecks to speak of for the day - and we found some really amazing places to get on video. We went back on Sunday to search out a trail to another mountain we had spotted earlier, but when we arrived at the valley it was all fogged in and raining and the visibility was just about 0%. We followed a few trails, but since we couldn't see where we were going, we didn't make it to the correct mountain. We may try to scare up a spare GPS to use or scope it out more with Google Earth.

In other news, the caretaker of Bella made an appearance and left some food for her. The owner is away in Miami and had indeed arranged for someone to take care of the dog. So, no kidnapped dog for us, since she seems to be sufficiently looked after. That, and the fact that when she comes into the house she pees. There are like 12 million rural acres in Kenscoff, and she prefers peeing on the floor inside the house. Go figure. (Yes, I know, I could train it out of her, but along with the fact that she has not been abandoned, I'm not going to spend the time to train her, - also, as you may remember from way back in line 1, we have moved.)

So we're living in Petionville now, in Josh and Marylynn's/Pancha's/Kurt's old place. More on the "new" place later - it has a pretty cool flat roof that we can hang out on and an open sun room out front for plants. Maybe some pics to come - all this reading is probably driving everyone crazy...where are the photos?

Here's one to get you started...